Stories and practical guides from the land of the first alphabet: cities and castles, the food on the table, the crafts in the souq, the feasts through the year — and everything you need to know before you go.
PlacesA full-day walk through Old Damascus: Souq al-Hamidiyeh, the Umayyad Mosque, Azem Palace, the spice souq and Straight Street — with timing and where to eat.
PlacesVisiting the Umayyad Mosque: from Roman temple and cathedral to one of Islam's greatest mosques — the mosaics, the three minarets and what to wear.
PlacesStraight Street (Via Recta) crosses Old Damascus from Bab al-Jabiya to Bab Sharqi: its Roman story, its place in the Bible, the Roman arch, workshops, churches and cafés.
Cities, villages, castles and ancient sites — what to see, how to get there, where to stay.
PlacesA full-day walk through Old Damascus: Souq al-Hamidiyeh, the Umayyad Mosque, Azem Palace, the spice souq and Straight Street — with timing and where to eat.
PlacesVisiting the Umayyad Mosque: from Roman temple and cathedral to one of Islam's greatest mosques — the mosaics, the three minarets and what to wear.
PlacesStraight Street (Via Recta) crosses Old Damascus from Bab al-Jabiya to Bab Sharqi: its Roman story, its place in the Bible, the Roman arch, workshops, churches and cafés.
PlacesPlain walls outside, paradise inside: the Damascene courtyard house, the houses you can visit, and how to sleep or dine in one.
PlacesWhat to see in Aleppo: the Citadel, the covered souqs, the Great Mosque, the caravanserais and laurel soap — and where to eat kibbeh and cherry kebab, with visiting tips.
PlacesPalmyra, the caravan city that defied Rome: the colonnade, theatre and Valley of the Tombs, what survives, and how to visit from Homs.
PlacesKrak des Chevaliers from the Hospitallers to Sultan Baibars, what to see inside, and how to combine it with the Valley of the Christians and Mashta al-Helou.
PlacesMaaloula near Damascus, where Western Aramaic is still spoken: St Thecla, the gorge, Mar Sarkis and the Feast of the Cross in September.
PlacesBosra in southern Syria: one of the best-preserved Roman theatres in the world, saved inside an Ayyubid citadel, a city of black basalt, and the story of the monk Bahira.
PlacesGuide to the Syrian coast: Latakia's corniche, Ugarit and Saladin's Castle, Tartus and Arwad island, Jableh's Roman theatre, and the mountains of Kassab and Slunfeh.
PlacesHama and its giant wooden waterwheels on the Orontes, Hama's Azem Palace and halawet el-jibn, with day trips to Apamea's great colonnade and Masyaf castle.
PlacesEscape the heat: Syria's mountain resorts — Bloudan and Zabadani near Damascus, Slunfeh and Kassab above the coast, and Mashta al-Helou.
PlacesThe best day trips from Damascus: Maaloula and Saydnaya, Mar Musa monastery, Bosra and Shahba, Zabadani and Bloudan — distances, timing and how to get around.
PlacesMar Musa near Nabk: a desert monastery since the 6th century with 11th–12th-century frescoes, the climb up its steps, and how to visit respectfully.
PlacesChristian Damascus: St Paul's road, the Chapel of Ananias, Bab Kisan, the Mariamite Cathedral and Bab Touma, and Christmas and Easter in the city.
PlacesTen Syrian castles not to miss: Aleppo, Krak des Chevaliers, Saladin's Castle, Marqab, Masyaf, Shaizar, Safita and more — and how to reach them.
From a breakfast of ful to cherry kebab — what to eat and why every visitor falls for it.
Food & drinkA guide to Syrian breakfast: ful medames, hummus, fatteh and msabbaha, manakish and ka'ak, labneh, za'atar and olives, morning tea — and how to order in a ful shop.
Food & drinkDamascus street food: chicken shawarma with toum, falafel, pounded Arabic ice cream, sahlab, ka'ak and licorice juice — eat like a local.
Food & drinkWhy Aleppo is a great food city: dozens of kinds of kibbeh, cherry kebab, muhammara, Aleppo pepper and the famous Aleppo pistachio.
Food & drinkA guide to Syrian sweets: baklava and its family, Hama's halawet el-jibn, Damascene barazek and ghraybeh, ma'moul, knafeh and Arabic ice cream — and what to take home.
Food & drinkA guide to drinks in Syria: Arabic coffee and bitter qahwa, tea, yerba mate, licorice, tamarind and jallab, qamar al-din in Ramadan and hot sahlab in winter.
Food & drinkHow meze works in a Syrian restaurant: hummus, mutabbal, muhammara, tabbouleh and fattoush, how to order — and the battle over the bill.
Food & drinkDishes from the Syrian family table: stuffed vegetables, maqluba, sheikh al-mahshi, kibbeh in yoghurt, kishk and the winter pantry.
Money, internet, getting around and what to pack — everything before you go.
Travel tipsMoney in Syria 2026: the new pound after two zeros were removed, cash and cards, official exchange, and how you pay for bookings on Bytnaa.
Travel tipsHow to get online in Syria: Syriatel and MTN SIM cards, the documents you need, eSIM, Wi-Fi in hotels and cafés, and the apps to download before you go.
Travel tipsGetting around Syria: Pullman buses, serveece and taxis, distances between cities, and when a rental car or a car with a driver is best.
Travel tipsA Syria packing list: clothes for the season and for religious sites, cash, adapter and medicines — plus customs warnings about antiquities, old coins and drones.
Travel tipsA 7-day Syria itinerary: Old Damascus, Maaloula, Krak des Chevaliers, Hama and Apamea, and Aleppo — where to stay and how to get around.
Travel tipsWhen to visit Syria: the weather season by season on the coast, in the mountains and inland, and the best months for cities, ruins and the sea.
Travel tipsArriving at Damascus airport: passport and visa, money and SIM, taxis and rental cars into the city — and how to get through the first hour smoothly.
Travel tipsWhere to stay in Syria: courtyard houses in Old Damascus, Malki and Mazzeh, Aleppo, the coast and the mountains — and what to ask before booking.
Travel tipsTips for women travelling to Syria: what to wear, taxis and transport, restaurants and family sections, travelling solo, and staying safe.
The first alphabet, the oldest library and the Syrians who shaped Rome.
History & cultureAt Ugarit near Latakia, clay tablets preserve one of the oldest alphabets, from the 14th century BC. The discovery, and why it changed the world.
History & cultureAt Tell Mardikh near Idlib, archaeologists found 17,000 tablets from c. 2400 BC — the royal archive of Ebla. What it holds and why it matters.
History & cultureAn empress from Homs, an emperor from Shahba and a Damascene architect of Trajan's Rome: the Syrians at the heart of the Roman Empire.
History & cultureThe hakawati storytellers of Damascus: the epics of Antar and Baibars, the Nawfara café behind the Umayyad Mosque, and café culture today.
History & cultureHow to be a good guest in Syria: greetings, being invited home, coffee and food, mosques and churches, bargaining, tipping and Ramadan.
History & cultureDura-Europos on the Euphrates: the oldest known house church, a painted synagogue now in the Damascus museum, and a city that fell in 256.
History & cultureSyrian firsts: the oldest alphabet and melody at Ugarit, glassblowing, damask and Damascus steel, and the scholars Ibn al-Nafis and Ibn al-Shatir.
History & cultureSyrian women who made history: Zenobia, Julia Domna, Mary Ajami, Nazik al-Abid, Colette Khoury, Ghada al-Samman and the singer Asmahan.
History & cultureWhy Aleppo is the capital of tarab: the UNESCO-listed qudud, muwashshahat, Sabah Fakhri's legendary nights — and where to hear it today.
History & cultureJane Digby, the English aristocrat who married Sheikh Medjuel on the road to Palmyra and lived between Damascus and the desert until 1881.
Brocade, inlay, laurel soap and Damascus steel — crafts that are centuries old.
CraftsThe crafts of Damascus: silk and gold brocade, mother-of-pearl inlay, ajami painting, blown glass and Damascus steel — where to see and buy them.
CraftsHow Aleppo soap is made from olive and laurel oil, why it dries for months in towers, what the laurel percentage means, and how to tell the real thing and buy it.
CraftsWhat to buy in the souqs of Damascus and Aleppo — spices, pistachios, laurel soap, sweets and crafts — how to bargain, and what not to take home.
Ramadan, Eid, the Feast of the Cross and the rose harvest — when to go and why.
Festivals & seasonsRamadan and Eid in Syria: iftar tables, qamar al-din, the pre-dawn drummer, nights in Old Damascus, ma'moul and Eid visits — with visitor tips.
Festivals & seasonsA year in Syria: the rose harvest in May, the Feast of the Cross in September, Christmas and Easter in Damascus, Ramadan and the Eids.
Festivals & seasonsThe Damascene rose: the May harvest in al-Mrah, rose water, syrup and jam, and the rose traditions UNESCO listed as intangible heritage in 2019.
Book a room, a table and a car in one place — prices in Syrian pounds, nothing paid up front.