Maaloula: The Village That Still Speaks the Language of Jesus
Maaloula near Damascus, where Western Aramaic is still spoken: St Thecla, the gorge, Mar Sarkis and the Feast of the Cross in September.
In this article
About an hour north of Damascus, in the Qalamoun mountains, the painted houses of Maaloula climb a sheer rock face. The village has a fame all of its own: here and in two nearby villages people still speak Western Neo-Aramaic, a living branch of the language Jesus and the people of the Levant spoke two thousand years ago.
The language
Aramaic was the language of trade and government across the ancient Near East for centuries, then gave way to Greek and Arabic. In Maaloula it survived as the language of home and everyday life, passed from parents to children. Ask politely at one of the monasteries and you may hear the Lord's Prayer in Aramaic.
What to see
- The Monastery of St Thecla, built into the cliff, with the shrine of the saint who, the story goes, took refuge here.
- The gorge (al-Fajj), a narrow cleft through the mountain which, legend says, opened to let Thecla escape. Walking through it is a highlight.
- The Monastery of Saints Sergius and Bacchus (Mar Sarkis) at the top of the village, among the oldest in Syria, with a fine view over the houses.
The Feast of the Cross
On the evening of 13 September and into the 14th, Maaloula celebrates the Feast of the Cross: bonfires blaze on the surrounding peaks, with hymns, fireworks and visitors from all over Syria. If your trip falls on these dates it is unforgettable — but book your stay early. More in our festivals calendar.
Maaloula was damaged during the war and many of its churches and houses have been restored. Respect residents' privacy when taking photos and dress modestly in the monasteries.
Getting there
Maaloula is about 55–60 km from Damascus. The easiest way is a car or a car with a driver for half a day; on the way you can stop at Saydnaya and its famous convent of Our Lady. For a quieter stay, there are guesthouses in the area.
- From Damascus
- About 55–60 km, one hour by car
- Language
- Western Neo-Aramaic
- Festival
- Feast of the Cross, 13–14 September
- Time needed
- Half a day
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