Mar Musa al-Habashi: A Monastery Hanging Over the Qalamoun Desert
Mar Musa near Nabk: a desert monastery since the 6th century with 11th–12th-century frescoes, the climb up its steps, and how to visit respectfully.
In this article
On a rock cliff in the Qalamoun mountains, east of the town of Nabk, stands a small stone monastery that looks like part of the mountain. To reach it you climb hundreds of stone steps in the silence of the steppe, then step into a church whose walls are covered in frescoes about a thousand years old. This is Deir Mar Musa al-Habashi, the Monastery of St Moses the Abyssinian.
The story
Tradition links the monastery to Moses the Abyssinian, the son of an Ethiopian king who gave up the throne and came to these mountains as a hermit. There has been a monastery here since at least the sixth century; monks lived in it for centuries before it was abandoned and fell into ruin in modern times. In the 1980s it was restored and monastic life returned, and it became a place where visitors of every faith come for quiet and reflection.
The frescoes
The small church is a real treasure: frescoes from the eleventh and twelfth centuries, layer upon layer, showing saints and prophets and a Last Judgement on the west wall. Carefully restored, they are among the finest examples of church painting in Syria.
The climb
From the car park at the bottom of the valley you climb about three hundred stone steps. It is not hard at an unhurried pace, but it is exposed to the sun. At the top a small bridge leads you to the monastery, with an open view over the steppe.
Bring water and a hat, wear comfortable shoes and modest clothes. In summer, climb early in the morning or late in the afternoon.
How to visit
The monastery is a place of worship and home to a monastic community. Respect the silence, ask before taking photos inside the church and follow the monks' instructions. Arrangements for receiving visitors and overnight guests change, so check before you go.
Getting there
The monastery is about 80 km north of Damascus and some 15 km from Nabk along a desert road. The easiest way is a car or a car with a driver, and you can combine it with Maaloula in one day — see day trips from Damascus.
- From Damascus
- About 80 km, 1.5 hours
- The climb
- About 300 steps
- Frescoes
- 11th–12th centuries
- Dress
- Modest
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