The Umayyad Mosque in Damascus: History, What to See, How to Visit

Few places on earth have been a place of worship for three thousand years without a break. The ground of the Umayyad Mosque is one of them: an Aramaean temple to the storm god Hadad, then a Roman temple of Jupiter, then a cathedral of John the Baptist — until the caliph al-Walid ibn Abd al-Malik built the mosque between roughly 705 and 715 AD.

What makes it extraordinary

Step through the gate into the courtyard and you understand at once. A vast marble court shines in the sun, framed by arcades, and high on the walls runs a gold and green mosaic of rivers, trees and palaces — a calm vision of paradise with no people or animals in it. These mosaics are among the oldest surviving works of Islamic art.

Three small domes stand in the courtyard: the Treasury dome on its columns, the Dome of the Clocks and the ablution fountain in the centre. The mosque also has three minarets, each with its own name and story:

• The Minaret of the Bride on the north side, the oldest.
• The Minaret of Jesus in the south-east, where tradition holds that Jesus will descend at the end of time.
• The Qaitbay Minaret in the south-west, in Mamluk style.

Inside the prayer hall

The long prayer hall is divided by rows of columns and carpeted throughout. In its middle stands the shrine of John the Baptist (the Prophet Yahya), visited by Muslims and Christians alike. In the north-east corner, a shrine linked to the memory of Imam Hussein draws pilgrims from many countries.

How to visit

• Avoid prayer times, especially Friday midday.
• Photography is usually fine in the courtyard; don't photograph people praying up close.
• The courtyard is at its best before sunset, when marble and mosaic turn gold.

Around the mosque

By the north gate, a small garden holds the tomb of Saladin. To the west lies Souq al-Hamidiyeh; to the south, Azem Palace and the spice souq. Behind the east wall is the old Nawfara café, famous for its hakawati storyteller.

Built

c. 705–715 AD, under al-Walid I

Where

Heart of Old Damascus, end of Souq al-Hamidiyeh

Time needed

One to two hours

Dress

Modest; cloaks available for women