Hama and Its Norias: The Orontes Waterwheels, Apamea and Masyaf Castle
Hama and its giant wooden waterwheels on the Orontes, Hama's Azem Palace and halawet el-jibn, with day trips to Apamea's great colonnade and Masyaf castle.
In this article
Hama sounds like no other city: a deep wooden groan that never stops. It is the voice of the norias, huge wooden wheels turned by the Orontes that have lifted water into aqueducts for centuries.
The norias
The norias watered orchards and carried water to houses, mosques and bathhouses. About seventeen survive; the largest, al-Muhammadiyya, is more than twenty metres across. The best thing to do is sit in a café or restaurant by the river at sunset and listen.
In town
- Hama's Azem Palace, older than its famous Damascus namesake, overlooking the river.
- The old quarters on both banks of the Orontes.
- Halawet el-jibn: Hama's signature sweet, soft rolls of semolina and cheese filled with clotted cream and sprinkled with pistachio — see our guide to Syrian sweets.
Apamea
About 55 km north-west of Hama lies Apamea, one of the largest Roman cities of the Levant. Its wonder is the great colonnade, nearly two kilometres long, some columns carved with spiralling flutes. Walking it early in the morning, with the green plain around, is one of the finest archaeological experiences in Syria.
Masyaf Castle
West of Hama, on the slopes of the coastal mountains, stands Masyaf Castle, linked in the Middle Ages with the Nizari Ismailis, known in European tales as the "Assassins". It is well restored and easy to explore.
Getting around
Hama sits halfway between Damascus and Aleppo, the perfect place to break the journey. Apamea and Masyaf are much easier by car.
- From Damascus
- About 210 km
- Norias
- About 17 still standing
- Apamea
- A colonnade of nearly 2 km
- Taste
- Halawet el-jibn
Plan the trip on Bytnaa
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