Syrian Hospitality and Etiquette: A Visitor's Guide to Greetings, Invitations and Souqs

What visitors talk about most when they come home from Syria is not the ruins but the people: the stranger who insisted on paying for the tea, the family who invited them to lunch after a short chat in the street. Hospitality is part of the Syrian character, and knowing a few customs makes your trip even better.

Greetings

• The usual greeting is "marhaba" or "as-salamu alaykum"; the reply is "ahlein" or "wa alaykum as-salam".
• Handshakes are common between men. With women, wait for her to offer her hand first; some place a hand on the heart instead, and that is not coldness.
• Asking after someone takes time: "How are you? How is the family? How is your health?" — take your time answering.

Being invited home

An invitation is a real honour. Bring sweets or fruit, and take off your shoes if you see shoes at the door. Coffee or tea will come at once, then a great deal of food. Eat a little of everything and leave a little on your plate when you are full, or it will be filled again. Read about Syrian home cooking.

Insisting and refusing

You may hear an invitation that never ends: "Please, please!" Part of good manners is to decline politely once or twice before accepting. If you really cannot, thank them warmly and give a clear reason.

Mosques and churches

• Modest clothing covering shoulders and knees, and a headscarf for women in mosques.
• Remove your shoes before the prayer hall.
• Don't walk in front of people praying, and don't photograph them up close.

In the souq

Bargaining is expected in traditional souqs, with a smile and without going too far. Where prices are marked, there is no bargaining. See our souq shopping guide.

Tipping

In restaurants, 5–10% is usual if service is not included. In cafés, leaving the change is enough. A small amount for porters and anyone who helps you.

During Ramadan

Respect those fasting: avoid eating, drinking and smoking in the street during the day. Tourist restaurants usually stay open, and the nights become a celebration — read Ramadan and Eid in Syria.

The bill

You will witness the famous "battle of the bill" — read about it in our meze guide.

Travelling as a woman? Read our tips for women travellers.